Chioccola (Snail)

I have always felt “at home” in Siena. It was an instant inexplicable feeling. Like Colorado and Courmayeur, Siena has captured a piece of my heart. I know the streets of Siena so well that even when I try to get lost, I end up in the Campo. I have my favorite gelato shop, my favorite cheap pizza by the slice vendor, my favorite bar to get coffee, my favorite hair stylist, favorite pastry shop for Ricciarelli cookies, my favorite running route on the fortress walls, and of course my favorite pasta is here….PICI! I have brought multiple people to Siena (both in person and virtually) and introduced them to her beauty and spirit. I’m not sure what it is about Siena that makes it feel like home to me, but every time I am there I am more certain of it. 

The biggest event in Siena is the Palio. On the surface it is simply a horse race. But in reality it is an event that gushes with community spirit, honors tradition, celebrates cultural history, secures and renews life long camaraderie, and continues the essence of what makes Siena not only a beautiful walled medieval city but gives an insight into the true meaning of what it means to be Sienese.

The Palio occurs every July 2^nd and August 16^th. It has occurred on these dates since 1656 (the August 16^th date was added in 1701). There are 17 neighborhoods (contradas) in Siena, each with their own symbol…. Duck (Oca), Snail (Chioccola), Panther (Pantera), Shell (Nicchio), Giraffe (Giraffa), Dragon (Drago), etc. There is only space for 10 contradas compete in each Palio so nearly half of them do not actually run. Even when not running, they are still very much a part of it in their spirit.

Contrada members waiting for the trial race pre-show and contrada dinner

The race itself is at 7pm and it lasts all of 3 laps around the Campo, totaling less than 2 minutes of action. But as I learned, it is not even so much about who wins the race more than it is about the ceremonies, the traditions and the love of the event and for the contrada. For the three days leading up to the race, there are dinners, chanting sessions, parades (and not the kind with beads), blessings of the riders and horses (yes the horses go in the churches and are blessed by the priest), numerous trial races, and streets so packed with people that you better hope you have no where else to be because you are not getting there anyway. 

Showing of the Chioccola contrada horse- all male contrada members create a circle and then march together  toward del Campo chanting. The women follow.

My beautiful Sienese friend, Carlotta, wearing her Chioccola scarf. These are given to Sienese babies on the day they are born.

Each contrada has assigned sections in the campo and the women, men and children all sit separately. If the Sienese can’t sit in their section, they would much rather watch the race from home on the TV, instead of being crammed into the center of the campo with the rest of us. Balcony seats go for upwards of 500 euro.

The day of the race I attended the blessing of the horse in the Panther district and then followed all the contrada members through the streets of Siena to the Duomo for the flag marching and display. Then I staked out my spot in del Campo. It was a blazing HOT Tuscan summer day (upper 90’s and with high humidity) and the only place in the Campo that was not yet full was in the direct sunshine. So I sat there for 3 hours, loving my frozen water bottle that was thawing. I watched as each contrada (whether or not they were running) marched in drumming and showing off their traditional attire. I was sweating and felt the hottest I had been in months, and I was dressed in a tank top and shorts. These people were in heavy velvet cloths and metal armor. This was some serious commitment to the traditional wear. 

Priest blessing the horse in the Pantera contrada church

The Pantera contrada members marching together toward the Duomo for the flag throwing parade

Drummers wearing traditional attire

After all the contradas marched in, the 10 horses lined up and we waited through 6 or 7 “false starts” before the gun fired to begin the race. In order to begin, each horse must be in their assigned spot and at the line all at the same time. If one horse moves out of his spot then they all have to re-line up. This sounds simple but it difficult when in a tight space with many spectators surrounding them and other horses and jockeys bothering them too.

Chioccola (Snail) contrada flag bearers

The race was literally less than 2 minutes in length and from my wonderful spot (2^nd row in from the sideline), I could see each horse pass by in a flash. The riders ride bareback and the horse can win even if the rider is not on. The campo is not that large and the “track” is packed with sand. The campo is my favorite spot in Siena and I have spent countless hours and days just plopped in it, reading, napping, watching the Sienese walking around, the tourists fumbling through their guide books and children running and playing. It was fun to see the same “square” packed with people, sand, horses and the excitement to be attending the largest event of the year.

The Giraffe contrada were crowned the winners of the August 2011 Palio. I was there to see it, feel it and know that this “once in a lifetime” event was completely worth the 6 train rides, sunburn and near heat stroke to be there. One of the best surprises was that I also got to meet up with my American WWOOF friend, Reva and spend the evening with her. She and I met in Siena in March so it was extra special for us to be there together for the Palio. 

Experiencing the Palio has only strengthened my love for Siena and made me feel even closer to the Sienese community. I hope I will be able to witness this incredible showing of tradition and community again.